Sari

Shot' or 'changeable' silk organza (kora) with zari brocade (supplementary patterning weft of silver gilt-wrapped yellow thread (kalabattun). Most likely from Varanasi, early 20th century. Silk warp is dyed bright cyan with synthetic dyes. Field design consists of sparsely placed floral motifs (butti) in horizontal stripes; motif orientation alternates on each stripe. Border scroll design along length and pallu (end piece) of alternating flowers and leaves - woven in one piece with designs stopping at corners (not resolved). Floral design reminiscent of baroque damasks (European market) and Mughal design repertoire. The ends of the patterning wefts are looped back in, so although there is a 'face' (gold fills floral motifs) and 'reverse' (gold surrounds floral motifs) side, the sari is fully reversible. Two bands of open warp precede the fringed edges. Changeable blue and gold silk with gold bullion woven in widely spaced bands of floral motifs and in a conventionalized floral border. Both ends fringed.