Bark Cloth Sample

A rectangular sample of kilohana (decorated outer sheet) bark cloth, made of wauke (paper mulberry). The sample was removed from a kapa moe (bed covering) measuring approximately 8 x 10 feet, present at the Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum. The kapa is referenced in William T. Brigham’s Ka Hana Kapa. A patterned bark beater with a halua pupu (two sets of parallel lines at right angles with a circle in the center) motif was used in its production, leaving visible markings in the cloth. The bark cloth is grey in color, which was created by using pili grass (Heteropogon contortus) charcoal during the dyeing process.

Kapa cloth is produced from the inner bark of a tree, typically wauke (paper mulberry), which is cultivated, harvested, and processed through soaking, scraping, fermenting, and repeated beating to form and refine the cloth. Patterned beaters may be used during production to create watermarks that can reflect regional styles or maker affiliations. After drying, the cloth is decorated using natural dyes and bamboo implements.

Kapa moe, used as bedding, was made with particular attention to thickness and durability to withstand repeated use, washing, and sun-drying.

From the eighteenth century onward, European collectors and scholars frequently collected kapa, often removing small samples from larger textiles to facilitate transport, study, and comparison in museum and private collections, a practice especially common during and after Cook’s voyages in the Pacific.