Sari

Pale green silk taffeta with zari brocade (supplementary patterning weft of silver gilt-wrapped yellow thread (kalabattun). Most likely from Varanasi. Border design along length and pallu (end piece) of scrolling floral motifs - woven in one piece with designs stopping at corners (not resolved). Floral design reminiscent of baroque damasks (European market). Pallu design consists of three segments: a main stripe flanked by two stripes that mirror one another. The corner design (koniya) is a singular large buta in the corner of the matan (central field of the textile) and the pallu angled toward the center. See object no. 88-16-40 for comparison of this feature. The ends of the patterning wefts are looped back in, so although there is a 'face' (gold fills floral motifs) and 'reverse' (gold surrounds floral motifs) side, the sari is fully reversible. Two bands of open warp precede the fringed edges. Silk, green. Wide border at one end and narrow border around both sides of gold bullion, woven in conventionalized floral design. One section of border which would not be seen while wearing the sari is worn and has the design in cotton.